Friday, December 1, 2006

Correct Proportions for a Jacket

Thanks to the bloggers at Artisan Square, quoting Louise Cutting: To get the proper portion for a all depends on your height.1. measure yourself from your shoulder to your waist over your bust the way, when you do that measurement, make a note how far down your bust point is from your shoulder. The tape measurer should be placed right where your neckline and shoulder seam would meet. At your bust point is where your FIRST button is placed on your garment (any garment should have a button here).2. Think of your pattern front as if it was 'you'...and put your tape measurer in the same spot at the nexkline/shoulder seam (at the stitching line, not the cutting line)...make a note on the pattern where YOUR waist is. About 100% of the time it is not where the pattern has marked the waist line. Forget the pattern waist line altogether.3. Measure yourself from your waist to the floor. Divide this measurement into fifths. The FIRST fifth is great for blouses, jackets, vests, any top that needs to cover a bit of 'stuff' but, the SECOND fifth is YOUR topper length for your height and proportion. Example: YOU measure 40" from your waist to the floor. Divided 40" by 5 and you will get 8", 8" down from your waist is good for blouses, jackets, etc. and 16" would be YOUR topper length. This is now measured on YOUR PATTERN from the mark YOU drew for your waist line, down 16" onto paper (I like 1/4" graph paper for the paper to use to lengthen). Yes, it is heavier than your tissue paper, but the 1/4" squares will give you the length you need quickly, 4 squares is 1" and one of the graph paper's vertical lines can be used to continue the grain line or center front/cutting lines. Get the 11" x 17" tablet at your office stores. I use it anywhere I need to add...takes the guess work out and is done in a snap. 4. Take it one step further ...the 4th measurement is your DUSTER length. So 32" down from the waist marking on your pattern should be the finished hem of your duster (if my math is correct after only 1 cup of coffee...and Twinkie helping me type).

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